Latest revision as of 15:14, 9 November 2025

[edit] Famous places to eat at

[edit] 2011

The Times of India, Sep 9, 2011

Historical buildings, crumbling edifices, chikankari embroidery, and, of course, the legendary Lucknawi tehzeeb… Add to it a food tradition that’s become synonymous with Lucknow. We scour the nukkads to come up with the best places to eat

— RACHANA RANA BHATTACHARYA

As part of the relief operations for the citizens of his famine-ravaged kingdom, Awadh’s Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah commissioned the building of grand edifices like the Bada Imambara. This would provide a means of livelihood to his subjects. He also directed his cooks to provide them with a nutritious meal every day. His bawarchis hit upon the brilliant idea of creating a ‘one-dish’ meal by placing everything (rice, meat, oil and spices) into a huge degh (pot), sealing it with dough, placing hot coals on the lid to ensure uniform heat and leaving the degh to simmer overnight on a slow fire. One day, the Nawab happened to pass by when the pot was being opened. Drawn by the tantalising whiff of the piping-hot food, he asked for it to be served at his dining table. Since then, neither nawab nor commoner has been able to resist the magic of Dum Pukht biryani, Lucknow’s signature dish down the ages.

Under the patronage of nawabs, Dum Pukht cuisine was refined even further — leading to an entire range of one-dish meals like khichda, haleem and, needless to say, various biryanis. As the cuisine evolved, the Qureshi community (reputedly the finest butchers) defined the selection of prime cuts to suit each recipe, into a very precise science. The Nawabs, who hailed from Iran brought grapes, pomegranates, dried figs and stews like nahari to India. Over time, they learnt to appreciate India’s mastery over spices, which began to flavour Awadhi cuisine. That is why, while Irani nahari is pale, the Lucknawi version is yellow. Garlic and tomatoes were not used at all. The richness of dark kormas and yellow kaliyas was enhanced by the right cuts, complex use of spices and ittars, and the seamless osmosis of slow cooking that infused flavours into recipes. Spicing became secret passed on like heirlooms. Gourmands like Nawab Wajid Ali Shah accorded cooking the status of an art. The key element of Awadhi cuisine was not over-the-top opulence but subtleties of perfection. Nazakat (delicacy) and nafasat (subtlety) were synonymous with the Lucknawi dastarkhwan (banquet).

WHERE TO SAMPLE WHAT

• Tunde’s (Akbari Gate): Gilawati kebabs with paranthas

• Oudhiana: Kakori kebabs

• Near Chand Hotel, Kaiser Bagh: Shammi kebab

• Maharaja Hotel: Murgh kali mirch

• Tulsi Plaza, Idris (Patanala Chowk), Mushtaq Mian’s (near Press Club): Biryani and kebabs

• Rahim’s: Nahari with kulcha

• Sheermal Gali: Traditional breads like naan, khameeri roti, varqi parantha, bakarkhani and sheermal

• Naushejaan, Sekhawat, Chote Nawab, Mughlai Mahal, Daal Mein Kala, Dastarkhawan and eateries at Shahganj: Traditional Awadhi specialities at pocket-friendly rates

• Taj Residency, Clarks Avadh, Carlton and Park Inn: Excellent Nawabi cuisine at five-star rates