Revision as of 16:39, 5 March 2017

Udhampur City

Prof Neeraj Dubey,Time to explore Udhampur "Daily Excelsior" 20/12/2015

Panoramic view of Udhampur

Udhampur is an important district which was one of the largest district of the state before bifurcation of its territory which led to a separate district of Doda. Udhampur district is important not only because of the location of the Headquarter of Army Northern Command, but also because of no. of Tourist and Pilgrim centre. Udhampur town is the headquarters of this district. Patnitop and Sudh Mahadev are also tourist places. Major attractions in Udhampur city include Gole Market, Devika Ghats, Jakahni Park, Ramnagar chowk (Pandav mandir), Salain Talab, and the Main Bazar.

HISTORY: – Udhampur had been named after Raja Udham Singh, the eldest son of Maharaja Gulab Singh, the founder of Dogra rule in J&K. The town is said to have been built in place of dense forests to which Udham Singh occasionally went on hunting trips. He developed great love for the spot and chose it as site for a township. Udhampur – the fifth largest district of the state is situated in the southern part of J&K State. The district lies between 32 degrees – 34 minutes to 39 degrees – 30 minutes north latitude and 74 degrees – 16 minutes to 75 degrees – 38 minutes east longitude. The district having an area of around 3000 sq. kms. Due to altitudinal variation ranging from 600 meters to 2000 meters, there is wide variation in temperature in different parts of the district. The temp. rises sometimes as high as 42- degrees celsius a very seldom goes below 1.5 degrees Celsius in low altitude areas. May, June, July are the hottest months, while December, January, February are the coldest months.

CULTURE:- The culture of this area is PAHARI which resembles the culture of other areas of Duggardesh. The other part of the district has Dogra culture. Dogri is the main language spoken by the people of the district. The Dogri spoken here is known for its sweetness in tone. Their main language is DOGRI/PAHARI. The language is the rural and hilly areas has maintained its native purity, accent and sweetness. Gojri is also spoken by the Gujjar Community settled here and there. However, Dogri is main language spoken in the district. The district is culturally an integrated part of Jammu region and all important religious fairs like Lohri, Maha Shivratri, Id-ul-Fitr, Holi,Ramnavmi, Baisakhi, Basant-panchami, Martyr’s day of Guru Arjun Dev, Raksha Bandhan, Janam Ashtami, Mahanavami, Dussehra, Diwali, id-ul-zuha, Guru Ravi Dass’s b’day, Mahatama Gandhi’s b’day Guru Govind Singh’s b’day, Chacha Nehru’s birthday. Above all, the Independence Day & Republic Day are celebrated with great enthusiasm. Holy Navratras also provide special occasion for worship and pilgrimage to holy places culminating into small to big fairs. The Dogras of Udhampur are stout people with a tradition of culture and chivalry going back to the hoary past. Their contribution to the cultural heritage of India is Priceless. The dialects of the area are Dogri, Pahari and Gojri. The folk dances are Kud , Yatars and Bhangara. Kud dance is based on traditional dogri folk and performed mainly in Panchari and Dudu-Basantgarh. The folk songs of the district are Lok Geet, Bhakha etc. Bhakha are certain songs sung independent of musical instruments. The Sudh-Mahadev , Krimchi , Panchari , Mantalai , Kud , Patnitop are the important attractions of the district. Sudh-Mahadev :- It is situated at distance of 42kms from Udhampur. During the time when Lord Shiva married Parvati , the daughter of Raja of Himachal at this place, there lived a cruel person named Sudeva who was a extortionist and used to put the people of this area to great miseries. Mahadeva put him to his doom. In this way after the name of Sudeva and Mahadeva, the place became famous as Sud-Mahadev. Every year , pilgrims in thousands from in and around Jammu province pay their obeisance to Mahadeva at this place on the occasion of Jeshta-Purnima. Holy Devak originates from here. It is called Gupt-Ganga. In the south west of Sudhmahadev there is Gouri-Kund spring named after real name “Gouri” or Parvati Devi.

Krimchi :- A small village situated at a distance of 10 kms from Udhampur. It is famous for old ancient temple called Pandavas temple.

Ramnagar :- It is a hilly area and a largest Tehsil of district Udhampur , which is famous for its ancient temples , Forts and Palaces, namely called Sheesh Mahal.

Panchari :- A small village situated at a distance of 37 kms in the North West side of Udhampur. It is Famous for natural charm , hilly spots , lush green and good climatic conditions. It is also called Mini-Patnitop.

Importance of River Devak :-

The holy Devika River flows through the Udhampur town which is famous for its spiritual and sacred values. This river has got a great importance & spiritual significance like Ganga especially for the people of Hindu’s and Sikhs community, which after performing the last rites of human body on the bank of river Devika immersed their ashes in the devika river. It is seen that the ashes gets disappeared very soon after immersing.

In the end , it is worthwhile to mentioned here the five natural characteristics by which Udhampur town is famous for :- Hawa(Air) , Badh(Pipal) , Bakhay(Gossips) , Bhodi(tree) & Bhayian( Natural Spring ). The author like to conclude this article by these sweet lines, “Udhampuray Dey Sharay Di – Tuseygi Gal Suna – Jeethey Char Pasey Rounsali Tarah – Jeethey Far Far Chuldi Hawa.”

(The author is Sr Faculty – GCET Jammu )

The land of natural springs

Chander M. Bhat, The land of natural springs "Daily Excelsior" 21/2/2016

Natural Springs

Udhampur popularly known as ‘the land of Druva’ ,‘the land of Bowli’s’ and land of Devika, Headquarter of District, is named after Raja Udham Singh, the eldest son of Maharaja Gulab Singh, the founder of Dogra rule in Jammu and Kashmir. The town is said to have been built in place of dense forest where Udham Singh occasionally went on hunting trips till he developed great love for the spot and choose it as site for township. District Udhampur lies between 32 degree 34 minutes to 39 degree 30 minutes North Latitude and 74 degree 16 minutes to 75 degree 38 minutes East Longitude.

The altitude of District Udhampur varies from 600 meter to 3,000 meter above sea level. The District is situated in the South-Eastern part of Jammu and Kashmir State and is bounded in the West by Rajouri District, in North-East by Doda District, in the South-East by Kathua District and in the South-West by Jammu District. Udhampur is also known as Devika Nagari

Total population of Udhampur town is 116727 souls as per census of India and the area of Udhampur city is about 6 square km. Udhampur city abounds with a number of natural springs locally known as Bowli. The water of these Bowli’s is hot in winter and cold in summer. Maximum population of Udhampur in the wee hours goes to these Bowli’s for having a refreshing bath and also takes water from these Bowli’s for drinking purpose as it is said that the water of Bowli is good for digestion. Temples, shady trees, big rocks, peepal trees, etc are usual accomplices of these Bowli’s, where Hindus pay their obeisance, kneel down in prostration and have ablations.

There is a cluster of eight Bowli at Devika Temple. Each Bowli has its own significance. Three Bowli has been earmarked for bathing purposes and others are used for temple use. The water of these bowli is being offered to Lord Shiva by the people and one can see a huge rush of devotees in morning hours. A grand fair is being held at Devika on the eve of Baisaki which lasts for two and a half day. People from far off places from Jammu region participate in this fair. There is an ancient Shiva Temple on the bank of holy Devika. On the days of Soma Amavasi and Baisaki a large of number people from Udhampur and adjoining villages throng this shrine for having a dip in the Holy Devika.

Bowli at Devika Temple

Devika shrine has the unique distinction of enjoying the esteem of every community alike. Pilgrims make their way towards this shrine in good numbers belonging to different races and ethnic groups. They wish to pay obeisance and get their wishes fulfilled.

There is a natural spring at village Londana near Battal Ballian in Udhampur and people suffering from skin ailments are being cured after having a dip in the spring. It is believed that this is due to shrine Shakti of Baba Londana. But scientifically the water has been seen to have sulpher smell.

Billan Bowli : This bowli is situated behind Head Post Office Udhampur. There is a Shiva Temple in front of this bowli. The water of this bowli is crystal clear and is good for digestion. People residing near this bowli use the water of this spring for drinking purposes. The name of this locality is also known as Billan Bowli Mohalla.

Kallar Bowli : This bowli is situated near Kallar on the western side of Udhampur on Dhar Road. There is a Shiva Temple adjacent to this bowli. Lust green water is oozing from the hill and the same is being stored in a pond build in the year 1953 by the residents of this locality.

Khartairi Bowli : This bowli is situated at Sangoor, Barrian. One can also reach this bowli via Udhampur by pass road. There are two Bowli’s one is covered and other one is open. The open one gets the water from the hillside. There is a Chinar tree in the compound of this temple. There is a Shiva Temple in the area of this bowli and the area comprises of about three kannal of land.

Mian Bagh Bowli : This bowli is situated on the left side of Air Force road. An ancient Shiva temple is also situated the complex of this bowli.

Ratairi Bowli : This bowli is situated on railway road near pump station, Udhampur.

Saken Bowli: Sakan in Dogri means the relationship between two wives of a person. These bowlis are situated near Udhampur railway station. The origin of these bowlis is one outlet from the bottom of the hill and the water is being diverted into two ponds equally.

Sansu Bowli: This bowli is situated near Supply Morh Udhampur enroute Pancharisome 4 km from Udhampur city. There is a shiva temple on the side of this spring.

Mongu Di Bowli: Mongu Di Bowli is situated near Devika Ghat and the bowli has been constructed by a pious person named Mangu in the year 1941. The same person also constructed a big pond at village Panthal enroute Katra and the pond has been named after him as Mongu da Talab.

Repository of Dogra Culture

Ashok Sharma , Repository of Dogra Culture "Daily Excelsior" 12/2/2017

Culture is the way of life of a group of people of a particular region. It includes the collective knowledge, beliefs, ideas, customs, etc. of the people of that region. Dogras, who inhabit the Duggar region in our State,have a rich culture of their own. They have their own beliefs, mores, folksongs, folkdances, folklores etc which they have practised since times immemorial. But the modern fast life, globalisation and exposure of the youth to the western culture has influenced the Dogra culture a lot. A large no of people, especially the youth are losing charm for our rich culture. Amidst all this,the people of Udhampur district have withstood this change to a large extent and practised and preserved Dogra culture in such a way that it can be called the repository of Dogra culture.In Udhampur, folk dances such as Kud, Geetrus etc. are still in vogue in many regions, especially in the hilly areas. We have famous folk dancers in Udhampur for performing the folkdance called Kud.They have popularised this dance in our state as well as at national and international level.Similarly,some talented and devoted artists of Ramnagar are doing a yeoman’service to preserve Dogra culture by presenting geetrus on various social and religious occasions.They also perform on national and other days in and outside Udhampur.

Traditional sports and games, which were an important part of our culture,too are given prominence in Udhampur.In Udhampur. We have traditional games such as wrestling, kabaddi., santolia, etc. which are highly popular in Udhampur. Indian style wrestling matches (Dangal) are organised on the eve of various fairs and melas such as Baisakhi fair, Moungri Mela, Shankri Mela and other occasions across Udhampur district. Thousands of people attend these competitions and applaud the wrestlers who converge from across the country to take part in these matches. The traditional marriage rituals, which are fast vanishing from the Dogra marriages, are still alive in many parts of Udhampur district, especially in remote and farflung areas. We have traditional marriage rituals such as Jagranas and marriage songs called ‘Suhaags’ and ‘Kourians’ and many other such rituals well practised in Udhampur than, perhaps in any other region of the State. Dogras are primarily religious people, who have profound belief in deities, saints and the people who sacrificed their lives for the sake of justice. They are eulogised by Dogras and their history and sacrifices are praised and sung in the form of Kaarkans, Baaraans, Bhaakhans etc.Jaatars are organised at the abode of Kuldevtas to make sacrifices, instal Kuldevtas or celebrate the birth of child or marriage of son.Kaarkans and Jaatar are well preserved and practised in Udhampur than perhaps in other regions of the state.Melas and fairs having economic, religious and social significance are an important part of Dogra culture.Various melas and fairs are held in Udhampur to add colour and vibrancy to the monotonous life. We have Moungri Mela, Sankri Mela, Gole Mela and Baisakhi Mela at Udhampur, Barmeen, Ramnagar. Then a grand three day Mela is organised at the pictursque spot of Sudhmahadev on the eve of full moon day of Saavan in June/July every year.In Ramnagar, melas are held at Dalsar, Gandhtop, Shivgali, Guraang etc.on various occasion. Various shrines and temples such as ISKCON temple, Pingla Mata, Marhara Mata, Vasuki Mandirs, Sharda Mata etc. are visited by people in large numbers on important religious days to seek blessings of various Deities.

Dress is also an integral part of the culture of a region. So far the Dogra dress is concerned, a good no of people practise Dogra dress, according to the climatic conditions, especially in hilly areas.Dogras wear simple dress such as ghuttanas, suthan, having many folds.They used to wear ghuttanas and long overcoat with a traditional turban called ‘safa’ . Women used to wear ‘Suthans’ having many folds or pleats. Many elderly people, especially in the upper reaches of Udhampur still wear this dress. Udhampur is, in fact,the land of true colours of Dogra culture and ethos consisting of various mores, beliefs, folklores etc.People in Udhampur are deeply connected to their culture. They celebrate traditional festivals such as Baisakhi, Lohiri, Rakshabandan, Minjaraan rade, Dhrubri, Ohoi Ashtami, Nag Panchami, Shivratri, Janamashtmi etc with great enthusiasm and religious fervour. People of Udhampur have strong belief in folk lores such as geetrus, gasaitan, gagail,masadde, etc.which reflect our varied culture and belief.They adhere to their traditions and beliefs and participate in these folklores wholeheartedly in large number.

Food is an important part of the culture of a region.Dogra food is another aspect of Dogra culture,which bear testimony to the people’s liking for this food.Traditional foods such as Madra, Kiur, Tarad, Katriar, Desi ghee, Matha, Maani Sakaran, Suchian, Chile etc are savoured and appreciated in Udhampur and in many rural areas. Food prepared in ‘daans’over wooden fuel on the eve of marriages, mundans, bhandaras and other occasions,is still practised in rural areas and cherished by one and all. Traditional food such as ‘Makki ka Toda’ and Sarson ka Saag’ is cherished and the cakes from the maize flour are prepared from the traditional water mills called gharats in many regions. There is a large number of ghrats on the banks of rivers and streams in Udhampur even in this age of fast life and technology. Dogra jewellery is much in vogue in many rural areas of Udhampur. Since times immemorial, Dogras have believed in serving the parents and elders with due respect and reverence and for this purpose, joint family system came into existence. This joint family system is still in vogue in many parts of Udhampur district, which ensures that elders are looked after properly and the youngers are treated with love and affection to ensure their holistic development and growth. Thus, the Udhampur district is serving as an oasis of Dogra culture in the whole state but the young generation is not taking much interest in conservation and transmission of our rich culture.

Thus there is need to take steps to promote Dogra culture.For this purpose, it is imperative that folk dances, folksongs, folklores etc are prominently sung and displayed on religious and social occasions. Dogri songs and Dogra artists should be encouraged at block, tehsil, district and provincial level on eve of cultural programmes related to National Days. Programmes based on Dogra culture, on the pattern of ‘Display Your Talent’ need to be organised at school level. There is also a need to launch ‘Duggar Channel’ which should be exclusively devoted to telecasting programmes related to Dogra culture , which can help a lot in promotion and preservation of this rich culture in Duggar region.

(The writer is serving as Lecturer in English in Govt.Hr.Sec.School (Boys) Udhampur)