Kolkata: Bangladeshi cuisine

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As of 2025

Sarthak G, July 7, 2025: The Times of India

Kolkata : Political upheaval in Bangladesh has cooked up a revolution in kitchens of Kolkata’s ‘mini Bangladesh’. These restaurants, once specializing in ‘opaar (other side) Bangla’ delectables, are now betting on ‘epaar (this side) Bangla’ and even Chinese and tandoori items to cater to the changed character of their clientele.


Restaurants at Free School Street, Marquis Street and Sudder Street in central Kolkata were once filled to the brim by foodies from the neighbouring country. However, amid diplomatic tensions, Bangladeshi footfall in these areas has sharply declined. While the eateries have not removed any item originating from kitchens across the border, they have considerably reduced their production. Some said if the situation didn’t improve in six months or so, new menu cards might have to be printed.


Bangladeshi cuisine has featured on menus of Marquis Street’s Kasturi since 1994. Now, chowmein has taken over the spot once adorned by plates of steaming ‘morog polao’. “Now, 80% of our business relies on ‘epaar Bangla’. The few Bangladeshi nationals who visit come with their local friends. We have reduced production of items like ‘morog polao’ and ‘maachh bharta’ by almost 40%. To attract young customers, we have introduced chowmein and some tandoori items,” said Kasturi manager Rashid Ahmed Mallik. 


Sudder Street’s The Bhoj Company has a similar story. “Earlier, we would buy more than 15 hilsas daily. Now, we hardly buy more than a couple. We are struggling to find even a third of the customers we once did,” said restaurant manager Subir Das. “We have not removed Bangladeshi items.

However, we are focusing more on ‘epaar Bangla’ and some Chinese items,” Das added. 


Business at these restaurants has gone down by almost 50% since the turmoil, staffers said. 
Ichamotee Restaurant on Marquis Street used to prepare 2kg mutton dak bungalow, 4kg chicken ‘bhuna’, and 4kg ‘shuntki bharta’ daily. “We have more than halved their quantities. Now the items are only made to order. People ordering on aggregator apps are also choosing ‘epaar Bangla’ items,” said manager KeshavSarkar.